India one day later

Tuesday 10th March:
Time 22.20
Making our way accross the Bay of Bengal to Singapore
Lat: 09 degrees 37.09 N
Long: 088 degrees 28.94 E
Speed: 20 knots

Listening to others experiences and memories of India I realise that I have become over the years in third world countries somewhat immune to poverty, dirt and all the many sights that are found so distressing in the West. I don't say this with pride but rather with wonder that i am taking in my stride what should shock and disturb me. I felt happy when I was wandering the streets, trying to cross roads in wild traffic and searching for tiny tailor shops to get alterations done in Pondicherry. It was fun to walk into little out of the way Indian shops....where Indians shop...and be shown with great friendliness and warmth anything I was interested in....absolutely no pressure, just helpful assistance. I liked the people and felt remarkably at home.

The students loved India for the most part; faculty and staff who had been before were like me I think, but some seemed to dwell on the negatives and find little to like or admire. two students were bothered by the fact that an auto rickshaw driver (cyclist) "stalked" them as they walked from place to place trying to persuade them to use his vehicle. I suggested that he was expecting them to tire from the heat (as many of us do) and was desperate to make a few rupees by taking them around. They would not see it that way.

We had an awful thing happen when we returned to the docks; our Pondicherry car and driver were not allowed into the Port as he was not 'registered'. We understood and got out. An auto rickshaw driver who was came and offered to take us and our backpacks and bags of purchases back to the ship...quite a distance to walk. We loaded ourselves into the rickshaw and he started his motor. It quit after about 200 yards! We wanted to get out but he absolutely insisted that he would pedal his bike....I tapped him on the back after a few yards of watching him strain and said it was too much and we should get out. He was annoyed and stubborn as he could be, refused to stop pedalling and shook his white head vehemently. I have never felt so uncomfortable and guilty and George wanted to get out and walk....the old man just kept on pedalling with his head down until he dropped us near the ship. I paid him far more than the usual fare and all he asked us for was a coke which we could not provide. Judging by the condition of the rickshaw and his clothes and body weight I would judge him to be one of the very poor....and very desperate. I wanted to weep. In retrospect perhaps I'm not as immune to some aspects of Indian life as I previously remarked.

Everyone who saw the Taj Mahal was deeply impressed by its beauty....I shall have to make it next time but the thought of airports and security and non stop travelling put us both off...as did the price!

I had a rehearsal tonight while in the Union people were discussing their impressions of India. A student was speaking when I went in late. She had been in a home stay situation when she felt she should have brought a gift and she had nothing. A woman said to her when she mentioned it "Give them your smile, it is a great gift which will be returned in good measure". I thought how wise and true that was because every single person I smiled at in India smiled back and often greeted me or spoke a few words.

Two young women in our cast had decided to fly to Mumbai on their own. They rented a car and driver and found a small hotel. The driver stayed with them for the whole duration of their visit, took them anywhere they wished to go and was very reasonable in price. I agree with the Semester at Sea Dean who said to the students before we went ashore, "India will change you, you won't ever feel quite the same again." I believe he was right.